1980's punk

1980's Punk! "Back and bigger than ever"

Research - 

Hairstyles - 

Bangs - There is no doubt the 1980's is one of the most iconic decade when it comes to hair. The 1980's hair looked like they were a lot of hard work to put together for a pretty strange and wacky final result as the hairstyles were very funk and odd in a stylish way. I guess you could say that the 1980's was a decade where it shows that fashion and hairstyles can get bigger! In the 1980's women decided that they wanted even nigger hair than the usual big size. Women also showed off brighter hair colours and many different unique styles. Women achieved the big hair look by perming their hair and using a teasing comb. This was an easy way to achieve big hair. Women would wear big hair as it was very trendy and comfortable.

During the 1980's women were influenced by Madonna and Cindy Lau Per.

Madonna 

Madonna during this period was seen n nail-baring mini skirts and cone bras. She represents many things to different people such as originality, controversy and music. 

Cindy Lauper

Cindy was known throughout the 80's for her experimental fashion choices. Cindy mixed, watched and clashed colours, patterns textures and styles to create unique looks that resembled 100% her. 

Another trendy hairstyle during this period was the side pony tail. Fringes were often cut and feathered back to add a stylish finish. The 'Jersey girl' or the big bangs hairstyles were also worn by women with medium to long hair. These hairstyles were made by layering the women's whole head then setting the hair with rollers and teasing to get the heigh. 

There were also the 'Asymmetrical' hairstyle. These hairstyles were the new revolutionary hairstyles of the 1980's period. These cuts were often left longer on one side of the head or formed into the angling bowl shapes. 

The mullet hairstyles were worn by many rockstars. The mullet included short layers which go around the face and single-layered hair around the back.

Finally came the Tails hairstyles which were very trendy during the 1980's era. You can achieve the tails hairstyle by leaving a small section at the centred nape of the neck long while cutting the rest of the hair short which was often dyed with contrasting colours. You can still see people wearing these hairstyles now-a-days 

Princess Diana - A British 1980's fashion icon - 

During this period in 1981, Prince Charles of Wales married Diana Spencer, a young English nanny. During the 1980's Diana was transformed from a shy princess to a huge fashion icon where she was closely followed by the press and was constantly appearing on the cover of women's magazines. All over the world women copied Diana's changing fashion and hairstyles. 

Hair in the 1980's was generally bouffant and very heavily. This was in contrast to the long straight, natural styles worn by women in the 1970's. Women would spend many hours taming their hair into the latest style with help from a variety of styling products such as mouse and hairspray. 

Punk! - Punk fashion is a non-conformist, rebellious style that came about in the late period of the 1970's and gained its popularity throughout the 1980's. Punk was a reaction against the idealistic peace-loving hippie era, as well a rejection of the consumerist, money obsessed culture of the 80's. Punk was inspired by many rock bands such as the Sex Pistols. Punk fashion was loud, aggressive, angry, and was designed to shock. 

Creating the 1980's mohawk! My final Outcome!

1) Using hair grips - 

This hairstyle was quite simple and easy to create. To create this style i first sectioned the hair into 4 pieces going down the head. At each section i created a small pony tail and back combed the hair and twisted it to form a bun. I loved creating this hairstyle as it was funned funky. I would love to try out some more 1980's hairstyles and experiment with non permanent hair dye and see what wacky styles i can create.

2) Using heated rollers - 

To begin this hairstyle i started by sectioning the hair into three sections. One at the left of the head, one at the right and one at the centre . Once i had finished sectioning i put the side sections in a cont tail to keep it out of the way from the middle section. Afterwards i section the middle and placed rollers going down the hair until i had reached the nape of the neck. Finally i braided both side sections of the hair to make my look funky. Finally to finish this look i took out the rollers and back combed the hair to create the Mohawk. 

Final Outcome!

Overall, i feel my final outcome was successful and feel i have achieved the desired 1980's feel to the hair. I feel this was my favourite genre so far so may do some further research and think about using this genre for my assessments as i feel there is a lot of styles you can do.

1960's hairstyle using heated rollers

1960's hairstyle using heated rollers

Research - 
1960's fashion we saw diversity and saw many different trends and styles influenced by working classes, music, films and social movements.

In the UK, fashion came from Paris to London with popular fashion designer Mary Quant (a welsh fashion designer and British fashion icon) Mary led the 'swinging London' revolution. Vidal Sassoon ( a British hairdresser, business man and philanthropist) transformed women hairdressing, taking the bob hairstyle and transforming it to the suit the mood of the decade.  Sassoon created iconic styles os the 60's, popularising short hair with geometric and asymmetrical cuts that revolutionised women styling.

(Mary Quant and Vidal Sassoon)

Film - Since film was invented many film stars have had a massive impact on the influences of fashion trends. Iconic artists of this era include Julie Christie, Catherine Deneuve, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Birkin and Audrey Hepburn who each had there individual style and signature look. 

Below is a cover of 'LIFE' magazine, May 1967, with Mia Farrow supporting Vidal Sassoon's bob cut created for her role in the film Rosemary's Baby 

Another example of movie stars with 1960's hair is Audrey Hepburn presenting the big loose soft curls.

Hairdressers have always influenced and changed the fashion of hairstyles and keep developing new modern ways to develop each hairstyle through time. The 1960's brought the voluminous beehive created by Vidal Sassoon. Other popular hairdressers of this period include Louis Alexandre Raimon. Louis created the Elizabeth Taylors Cleopatra look and styled many movie stars like Greta Garbo and Raymond Bessone who trained Vidal Sassoon and is believed to have influenced the modern bouffant.

Music - Music has a huge impact on fashion and hairstyles. Ever since the late 1950's, the styles worn by the rock and roll singers and popular bands of this period were embraced by lovers of the music and many teenagers developed there own 'street fashion'.

The well known music band 'The Beatles' influence the 'mop hop' hairstyle which influenced mens hair for a generation and is synonymous with the 60's. In the later half of the decade, political activism, social changes and psychedelic rock music led to hair for the men and women becoming longer and left natural, in keeping with the care free yet still resembled the hippie subculture. 

Hair Assessories - 

Wigs and Hairpieces 

Fake hair was the big hair accessory of the 1960's and was worn by many women openly. Wigs were made of real hair and generally came as a pull on and wear style. Hair pieces which were also made from real hair were attached to the back of the head which created width and height making big hair even bigger. These hair pieces could be used to create a top knot. Contrasting colours were used as well as those matching the persons natural hair colour. False hair attached to a wide velvet headband was very popular, as were bows with hair attached to them. Clusters often had a comb attached to help attach it to the natural hair. 

Comb and Slides - 

Combs and slides were made of plastic and then decorated with bows, rhinestones, bright swirls or mod-inspired black and white geometric patterns. To prevent the beehive hairstyle from collapsing women would use the Spanish mantilla comb. 

Headscarves - 

The young and fashionable liked to tie there headscarf right on the point of their chin as opposed to being tied under the chin like their mothers. Another way the scarves can be tied is at the back of the head at the nape of the neck. A longer scarf would be crossed under the chin and then wrapped round the neck and tied at the back. to make this look even more fashionable women would wear huge dark sunglasses.

Popular hairstyles - 

The Bouffant - 

The bouffant was from the 1950's and cried through to the 1960's. During the 1960's it varied in size from rounded to big. This hairstyle was easy to wear and was very popular with women of all ages and was reasonably easy to create. To create this style women would set their hair in large rollers to create height and lift. The hair was then back combed and finished with a smooth round exterior.

The ends of the curls were either curled, flicked up or smoothed under. Either way the hair was set with a mosquito clearing cloud of hair lacquer to keep the curl secure into place. Famous Bouffants wearers include Jackie Kennedy ad Bird Johnson.

The Beehive - 

The beehive is one of the iconic hairstyles of the early 1960's. This beehive is a hive shaped, backcombed and lacquered mountain of hair that would last for a couple of days with only the need of a tiny bit of tweaking. The beehive could also be twinned with longer hair in a half up half down style. Margaret Vici Heldt created the beehive. This hairstyle came about when  Margaret had been asked by the editors of Modern Beauty Salon to design a new hairstyle that would reflect the decade. This elegant up-do was very popular worn by famous people such as Dusty Springfield and Audrey Hepburn. 

Long hair would be put into a high  pony tail which were worn combined with ether a bouffant or a beehive at the front. Fringes were also popular in the 1960's. When worn they were full, straight and came in to at least the eye brows length. The side swept look was also fashionable in this period but not as popular as the original fringe. 

Electronic tongs and the new styling wand(hairdryer/curler) enabled women to create big loose curls and produce lots of lift. Heated carmen rollers were readily available making it a lot easier for women to set and curl the hair at home instead of going out to the hairdressers. Older women would not usually go for a fashionable modern style and may still have worn more mature style from the 1950's.

My final outcome -  

Below is my final outcome done in lesson. We were learning how to use heated rollers and learning how to create the bee hive. I decided to do a half up half down style with a beehive on the top half of the head with the left over hairs swept across the right side the shoulder with a pin curl to hide the hair grips from the beehive. Overall i enjoyed creating the beehive and feel that achieved the desired look i wanted. I would like to experiment with the beehive and see what other styles i can create using this technique.

How to - 

1) Set the hair into large rollers into brickwork formation

2) Once the rollers have cooled down , remove the grips and take out the rollers

3) Style the curls starting at the top and being back combing to bring lift

4) Once i had finished back combing the top pat of the head i twisted the hair to create the lift and shape

5) I then took a section of hair from the side of the face and created a in curl to hide the hair grips and to add my own little twist to it

6) Lastly i swept the leftover curled hair down one side of the shoulders 

Knotting hair - Moustache

Knotting Hair - Creating a moustache -

Research -

Wigs are worn when a character needs a particular hairstyle but doesn't have the natural hair which is suitable for the certain style. Hair knotting is generally created in Asia where costs are significantly cheaper for what is a labour intensive skill. The quality of the wigmakers workmanship will have a huge impact on the final outcome. 

Single hairs to create single knots are considered the best method of knotting, producing individual single strands of hair. Two or three dimple strands of hair can be knotted at the same time to speed the  process up however will create a larger knot. Double knots involve knotting the hair twice which provides a stronger, durable knot. However the finished look using the double knot method can be more visible under close inspection. This can be a problem as it doesn't create a natural hairline and for this reason most hair lines are created with single knots on a flesh tone material to create more of a natural looking outcome. 

As a makeup artist you're not required to make wigs however it is useful to understand how they re made so you can recognise good workmanship. Knotting is a delicate technique and requires good eye sight and patience. It is best to use straight hair about 150mm in length. Also selecting a suitable knotting needle to suit the size of the mesh of the net will make knotting the hair easier.

How to -  Below i have attached a link where it demonstrates how to knot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaHlaYv8WWU

Types of knotting - There are many different techniques of knotting used when making or repairing a wig.

Single knotting - This is where individiual knots of hair are added to the net. This is the most common method of knotting when a fine net is used. Different types of sizes of knotting hooks will be used depending on the amount of hair wanted for each knot.

Double knotting - Double knotting is when you need to make the hair 100% secure. The overall result however is unsightly as the knots are less concealed. Double knots are commonly used on the crown and large parts of the foundation but double knotting will normally be used for the more visible parts of the wig.

Under knotting - After the piece of hair has been knotted, the hair is then turned inside out on a malleable block. You then apply single knotting technique to the edge of the foundation, following the direction of the hair on the opposing side. Add two- three rows of under knotting. Once you have finished the wig is usually pressured using tissue paper or a cloth to protect each piece of hair.

Point knotting - This is where you are single knotting the point ends of the hair. You cut the routs ends away, this allows the hair to lift from the piece. This technique is commonly used for mens short-haired postiche, on the nape of a short haired women or on light fringes.

Creating a Moustache! - 

How to - 
1) Cling film over the upper lip and using a marker pen draw around the shape of the upper lip.
2) Sellotape over the cling film so it doesn't rip or stretch
3) Trace the outline of the upper lip onto the paper
4) Cut out the shape and pin into place onto your head
5) Place netting on top of the lip to create the moustache
6) Begin single knotting over the area you want to be knotted

My final outcome - 
Below i have included images of my development when knotting. At first i found this technique very difficult and couldn't find the patience to practice to carry on as it required time and concentration to practice to eventually reach the technique. After a couple of stressful minutes i had finally created  my first knot and was over the moon. Once i had done one knot, the others became easier and easier as i kept practising. As soon as i know it half of the moustache was complete. Once i had succeeded and was happy with single knotting i tried speeding things up by adding more hair each time to make the moustache thicker. Overall am very happy i stuck with it and didn't give up as i have learnt a knew technique and feel my outcome was successful.

1970's hairstyle + Afro

1970's hairstyle + Afro - 

Research - During the 1970's new styles and hair styles were being experimented and created throughout this decade,  Women in the 1970's varied for long, soft and feminine to edgy and more of a sexy feel. There were many women in television, adverts, films and music of all genres were influencing hair and fashion on peoples lived during this period such as Farrah Fawcett-Majors. Farah Fawcett-Majors was a massive influence during the middle of the 1970's. Farah had long feathered cut with big flicked hair. As seen in the image below. Farah was a poster girl who was a huge inspiration to many teenagers.

There are many youtube videos on how to create Farah's Fewcett's huge curls. One of my personal favourites was by Holly Chastain linked below. 

How to create Farah Fewcetts hair by Holly Chasten - https://www.youtube.com/watch?

v=ZOOcC7oZ29k

Films - 

Many popular films were released in this era such as 'The Boy Friend (1971), 'The Great Gatsby (1974) and 'Grease'. Grease is an American musical-comedy released in 1978. This film was directed by Randal Kleiser and produced by Robert Satinwood and Allan Carr. In the final scene pictured on the cover bottom left, Sandy is wearing typical big and soft loose curls from 1975 pictured below.

1970's hair in Music - 

1970's music was very much glam rock, disco, funk and northern soul. Influential women in the hair/music industry include Donner Summer. Donner summer wore numerous wigs and looks but kept it glam and fashionable.

Popular hairstyles within the 1970's - 
The ape -  This hairstyle consisted of shorter hair on top combined with longer hair at the back where there is many layers throughout the hair. This hairstyle can be straight or curly but always gave a shaggy look. This style has been seen on actress Jennifer Aniston and model Alexa Chung for its messy appeal. 

Long straight hair - Long straight hair has been seen since the end of the 1960's which continued its popularity into the 70's. You can see this hairstyle on many young school girls during this period. Many young girls would also flick the fringe, also known as 'wings'. To achieve this look the hair would be ironed under a paper bag.

The Afro - This hairstyle embraced the back community to embrace their natural hair structure instead of being 'society correct' with straightened hair. The 70's afro was as much as being fashionable as it was politics and could be worn by both men and women largely by African-Americans or people with natural curly hair as an alternative. 

My final outcome - 
Below i have added a variety of images done in class where i created the Afro style. This hairstyle was a lot easier to create then i first imagined. To create this style you section the hair into many pieces and curl each piece. You then use a back combing brush to back comb the curls to create the volume and texture. Overall i enjoyed creating this look and feel my outcome is successful. Although i enjoyed learning a new technique i am unsure how i would use it into my assessment.

How to apply a wig block

How to apply a wig block -

Research - Applying non-natural pieces of hair is created to add length, fullness or to change the overall style of the hair. There are many methods such as: tape in extensions, clip in or clip on extensions, fusion method,  weaving methods and wigs. 

Netting - Netting is a technique which involves braiding natural tresses under a thin net that  serves a flat surface onto which stylists can weave extensions. Using this method you will need to use a hair net or cap to place over the models hair.  Netting provides flexibility. 

Lace Fronts - The most recent development is lace fronts, which we are using in class. The lace fronts are made from a nylon mesh material formed into the cap that is then hand ventilated by knotting since strands of hair into tiny openings of the cap. this gives the hair a more natural and authentic appearance . The extension can be woven in or attached to a persons hairline with special adhesives. this method is commonly used by women around the world as it makes possible to access a certain area of the scalp and at the same time giving a natural and attractive look. 

Human hair wigs - Human hair shaft is made up of dead, hard protein, called Keratin, in three layers. Th dinner layer being the medulla and may not be resent, Secondly the cortex and the outer layer is the cuticle. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. The cuticles are formed tightly into packed scales in an overlapping structure. There are pigment cells that are distributed throughout the cortex  which gives the hair its colour. The cuticle is responsible fro the strength of the hair fibre. If the cuticle is healthy it works more than just a protective layer but also controls the water content of the fibre which controls the shine.

The human hair industry includes the selling of wigs, weaves and other styling products that generates hundreds of millions of dollars each year and is growing a large export economically in places such as Asia and India at a rate of 10-30% annualy. In India, a large portion of the hair is sourced from Hindu temples where the hair is donated for religious practises, to honour of the Hindu God Vishnu. The hair is sought out for its 'virgin' untreated qualities as well as its length. From there the hair is then collected and cleaned and any colour is removed before being re-dyed for international styles tastes.

Manufactures of artificial hair use a standard scale to classify hair colour. The lower number 1 usually is darkest black and would become lighter with the increasing number ending at the lightest blonde, then finally white. 

Demonstration - 

In class we got the chance to experiment with different hair and facial pieces which can be used in television shows, films and theatre productions. Below i have included a photo from the lesson where the teacher demonstrated how to apply a victorian head piece and did a victorian hairstyle to go with.

My Final Outcome - 

Within this lesson we were taught how to apply a section of hair to the actual head. I have chosen a long plait and have curled it around the bun to extend the length and shape of the bun. Firstly i brushed through the hair and created a small bun using the extra pieces of hair and use hair grips to place the bun into place.. You are going to want to twist your bun in the direction you want your plait to go round and position your plait where you want to start from. Although this was quite simple to do i am going to experiment more with extensions and how i can change the overall look of the hair and how i can include them into hairstyles with shorter hair.